For Do-It-Yourselfers and Professionals alike, this Crown Molding app calculates the miter and bevel angles to use with a miter saw when cutting crown molding for installation.
Crown Molding supports both horizontal corners (for typical flat ceilings and mantels, etc) and vertical corners as required for cathedral or vaulted ceilings.
Easy-to-understand illustrations are displayed to assist with placing the piece of crown molding on the saw for the perfect cut.
No more guessing or wasted material. Cut it right the first time!
Wall angle: Use an angle finder on the wall to find out the exact angle required for the cut.
Spring angle: Spring angles ( tilt at which the crown sits on the wall ) is usually 38, 45, 52 degrees.
Translate the results to your miter saw.
Happy cutting and remember to cut safely!
Email me with any questions/ suggestions
Current version 1.3 functions supported for Compound Miter Saw Settings
Crown Molding Miter Angle and Saw Blade Bevel Angles
Rake Crown Molding Miter and Bevel Angles
Polygon Crown Molding Miter and Bevel Angles
Radius Bull nose Crown Molding Miter and Bevel Angles and width
Horizontal to Rake Crown Molding Miter and Bevel Angles
Calculate Crown Molding Spring Angles
Compound Miter Angle and Bevel Angle Calculator for compound joinery.
Use this calculator to cut compound angles with the material on edge in the compound miter saw instead of laying flat in the compound miter saw.
Email the Miter Angle and Saw Blade Bevel Angles to your self or friends.
Support for more devices and additional sensor filters coming soon! Support the developer and buy Angle Finder Pro!
From the reviews and responses from users it looks like for the devices it works on, people love it! If AngleFinder doesn't work on your device, please contact me with your hardware information. I am working to add more devices as I get my hands on the hardware necessary to test on.
More from developer
This is two apps built into one. You get a staircase calculator and also a balluster spacing calculator.
Enter overall height of the staircase and you will get:
* Overall width of the staircase
* Number of treads
* Riser height
* Tread run
* Staircase angle
* Staircase dimensions: the rise and run of each tread.
!* Running stringer points.
Enter the width of the opening (plus a few details about your ballusters and layout) and you get:
* Balluster count
* Layout position of each balluster
Answers are in INCHES-SIXTEENTHS format (i.e. 4-7 is 4 and 7/16"). That means no converting decimals to fractions on the jobsite.
It is FREE. Try it and love it.
1. Run the app and click the STAIRCASE button.
2. Enter the overall staircase height. This is the height from the finished floor at the bottom to the finished floor at the top.
3. EITHER enter an acceptable range for the riser height OR the number of treads desired for the steps. If you specify a range, the riser height will be close to the middle of the range. If you enter the number of treads, the range values are ignored.
4. Check or uncheck the 'Start One Step Down' checkmark. Most steps start 'One Step Down' from the top.
5. Enter the thickness of your treads.
6. Enter the width of the treads.
7. Enter the desired amount of overhang for each tread.
8. Click 'Calculate'
The next screen will give you the information about your stairs. Most of the infor is self-explanatory.
If you cut steps the old-fashioned way, just use the rise and run cut values from this page to mark your stringers.
However, a far superior method of marking stringers is to use the Running Stringer Layout. Here is a quick guide:
* Starting at the end of the board, make a mark at each point in the chart.
* Put your stop clamps on your framing square at the rise/run marks.
* For each tread, find the best place to fit the square between each set of marks. In a perfect world, the square will fit perfectly between each set of marks.
* Continue up the stringer, marking each tread, until all are marked.
Using this method eliminates marking errors. Nearly perfect stairs every time.
1. Run the app and click the BALLUSTERS button.
2. Enter the overall width of the opening.
3. Enter the thinest part of the balluster. Often times, stair spindles vary in thcknness. measure along the balluster to find the thinnest part.
4. Enter the width of the balluster at the top/bottom. If (very unlikely) you have a balluster that is thicker in the middle than it is at the top/bottom, enter the thickness at the top.
5. Enter the maximum allowable spacing allowed between ballusters. Usually, this is 4 inches.
6. Check or uncheck weather you want the results to be 'On Center' or 'On Edge' layout.
7. Click 'Calculate'
The next screen will give you the information about your balluster layout.
TIP: If you are installing ballusters between several openings that are next to each other (like a deck rail), you should try to get the spacing between the ballusters in each section to match the spacing in the other sections. Here's how:
* Calculate the spacing for each section. Write them down.
* Usually there will be several sections that are either identical or very close. Settle on the most common spacing.
* Then, on the sections that do not match closely enough, adjust the 'Max Spacing' field and then recalculate that section. You may have to do this a couple of times in order to get the best spacing to match the other sections. It is OK if sections varys a bit from one another section. Minor variations are invisible to the eye.
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