Rising more than 20,000 feet into the Alaskan sky is Denali, the tallest mountain in North America. In this collection of exhilarating and stunning narratives, Jonathan Waterman paints a startlingly intimate portrait of the white leviathan and brings to vivid life men and women whose fates have entwined on its sheer icy peak.
* For climbers who know the basics and are ready to venture at higher altitudes
* Written by longtime guides and climbing instructors certified by the American Mountain Guide Association (AMGA)
* Recommended by the AMGA
* Teaches situational thinking and learning as well as technique
This intermediate-level guide addresses tools, skills, and techniques used in alpine terrain including rock, snow, ice, and glaciers at moderate altitude -- approximately 5000 meters (16,000 feet) and lower. The technical protection systems are covered, of course. But 30 years of alpine climbing experience has convinced the authors that mastery -- and safety -- lie in the far more difficult task of knowing exactly which techniques to use, where and when. Therefore, they teach step-by-step decision-making skills, providing scenarios, checklists, and self-posed questions to inform the decision process.
Alpine Climbing assumes some prior knowledge, primarily in rock climbing skills and techniques. Basic knots, belaying, rappelling, building rock anchors, leading, placing rock protection, and movement skills on rock: variations of these skills that are of particular value in the alpine environment are addressed in this book.
As physical as climbing is, it is even more mental. Ultimately, people climb with their minds—hands and feet are merely extensions of their thoughts and will. Becoming a master climber requires that you first master your mind.
In Maximum Climbing, America’s best-selling author on climbing performance presents a climber’s guide to the software of the brain—one that will prove invaluable whether one's preference is bouldering, sport climbing, traditional climbing, alpine climbing, or mountaineering. Eric Hörst brings unprecedented clarity to the many cognitive and neurophysical aspects of climbing and dovetails this information into a complete program, setting forth three stages of mental training that correspond to beginner, intermediate, and elite levels of experience and commitment—the ideal template to build upon to personalize one's goals through years of climbing to come.
Probing the furthest reaches of human daring and endurance, here are 28 of the great first-hand accounts of extreme mountaineering, from legendary names.
·Heinrich Harrer - first conqueror of the notorious Eigerwand.
·Robert Bates - the classic account of the ill-fated American 1953 expedition to K2.
·Maurice Herzog - his unstoppable ascent of Annapurna at the cost of frostbite.
·Walter Bonatti - tragedy on the Central Pillar of Freney on Mont Blanc.
·George Leigh Mallory - surviving an avalanche on the 1922 Everest expedition.
·René Desmaison - his epic story of 14 days stuck on The Grandes Jorasses in winter.
·Jon Krakauer - recalling his solo ascent of The Devil's Thumb in Alaska.
The price of the summit is often measured in human suffering, yet for those who succeed the rewards can be incalculable. Nerve-wracking and unputdownable.
In 1967, seven young men, members of a twelve-man expedition led by twenty-four-year-old Joe Wilcox, were stranded at 20,000 feet on Alaska’s Mount McKinley in a vicious Arctic storm. Ten days passed while the storm raged, yet no rescue was mounted. All seven perished in what remains the most tragic expedition in American climbing history.
Revisiting the event in the tradition of Norman Maclean’s Young Men and Fire, James M. Tabor uncovers elements of controversy, finger-pointing, and cover-up that make this disaster unlike any other.
Jim Curran, himself a survivor of 1986, has traced the history of the mountain from the nineteenth-century pioneer explorers down to the present, and sees a repeating pattern of naked ambition, rivalry, misjudgement and recrimination. He has also found selfless heroism and impressive route-making on the mountain that top climbers will always covet as the ultimate prize.
—From David Robert's The Mountain of My Fear
In these thrillingly true tales of narrow brushes with death, Cecil Kuhne has amassed a wide range of stories that show the awesome power of the mountains. Spanning five continents, from the frosty tip of Mount McKinley in the dead of the winter, to the unexplored vastness of the Himalayas and beyond, this is a pulse-pounding collection of disaster and survival at the top of the world.
• Joe Simpson's Touching the Void—An inspiring story of a climber who topples into a icy crevasse and, though crippled, starving and frostbitten, still manages to crawl to rescue.
• Jon Krakauer's Eiger Dreams—Reaching the limits of his own climbing skills, the author makes a crucial decision whether to brave the treacherous higher altitudes or return to base.
• Nando Parrado's Miracle in the Andes—The stunning first-person account of a Peruvian rugby team's airplane crash in the Chilean Andes and their harrowing journey down the mountain for help.
In a narrative released posthumously, Brueckner details over fifty years of climbs in the mountains beginning in 1938 in Switzerland when he first ascended a steep dusty trail up the Rigi and discovered his love for thin air, spectacular views, and physical challenges. In his entertaining anecdotes, Brueckner leads others through his mountaineering adventures that took him from the Matterhorn to Mt. Blanc to the Sierra Madra, Half Dome, Mt. Woodson, and the Tetons. Brueckner not only shares a glimpse into a day in the life of an avid climber, but also describes the technical aspects of mountain climbing, the equipment, and the sometimes unforgivable terrain. Included are his personal ratings that classify climbs according to difficulty.
Mountaineering: A Personal History is a nostalgic compilation of stories that chronicle one mans adventures as he scaled peaks in Europe and the United States and nurtured his passion to become one with the gods.
Allen Herbert Bent (1867?1926), a native of Boston, Massachusetts, started his life of scholarly research into alpinism by dropping our of college ? anything but a promising beginning. Soon, however, he began the serious study of the history of mountaineering, ultimately writing extensively on this topic. He became the first person elected to The American Alpine Club, during its days of ?exclusivity,? under the ?or the equivalent? clause of membership prerequisites, for he was never a serious alpinist ? always contenting himself with the study of its literature.
Howard Palmer (1883?1944), a lawyer by training, inherited the management of his family?s mattress manufacturing business in New London, Connecticut. Starting in 1907, he compiled an enviable record of first ascents in the mountains of western Canada and in 1914 published the North American classic, MOUNTAINEERING AND EXPLORATION IN THE SELKIRKS. He served as editor of the Club?s first guidebook and several editions of its JOURNAL. He also furthered the organization as its secretary, a director and as its president.
James Monroe Thorington (1894?1989), of Philadelphia, was an ophthalmologist by profession, following in the footsteps of his father. After the end of World War I, Roy, as he was known to his intimates, spent most of his vacation time in the mountains of western Canada and served as editor of the Club?s guidebooks to that region for several editions. A diligent student of alpine literature, he compiled a number of scholarly researches into the history of American alpinism, served many years as a director of the Club, one term as its president, then for 10 years as editor of the AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL, and gave the Club some of the most valuable items in its museum. In 2000, the UIAA gave its first award for research into the history of alpinism under the name of James Monroe Thorington.
After graduating from Harvard in 1942, Andrew John Kauffman (b. 1921) the son of two distinguished American literary figures, spent his entire working career in various diplomatic capacities. Between State Department assignments in Washington, Paris, Managua and Calcutta, he spent weekends and holidays in the Alps and the mountains of Peru, Colombia, Alaska, Canada, and finally in the Karakoram, where he demonstrated a high level of acromania by becoming one of the only two Americans to make the first ascent of an 8000 meter peak. He also served the Club as a counselor and as vice-president and was elected to Honorary Membership.
William Lowell Putnam (b. 1924) has been an official of the Harvard Mountaineering Club, the Appalachian Mountain Club, then The American Alpine Club and finally the International Association of Alpine Societies (UIAA), and has been honored by several other mountaineering societies. His major employment was in television broadcasting, but his heart remains in the mountains of western Canada. At this writing he is the sole trustee of Lowell Observatory in Flagstaff, Arizona. While many have wished for the opportunity, people have not yet read his obituary.
The book is colour-coded for easy reference and all information is
presented in lists and tables, making it simple to understand in
The Rucksack Guide series is adapted from Mountaineering: the essential skills for mountain walkers and climbers, the definitive handbook for hill walkers, climbers and mountaineers.
In 1939 the Savage Mountain claimed its first victim. Born into vast wealth yet uneasy with a life of leisure, Dudley Wolfe, of Boston and Rockport, Maine, set out to become the first man to climb K2, the world’s second-highest mountain and, in the opinion of mountaineers, an even more formidable challenge than Mt. Everest. Although close to middle age and inexperienced at high altitude, Wolfe, with the team leader, made it higher than any other members of the expedition, but he couldn’t get back down. Suffering from altitude sickness and severe dehydration, he was abandoned at nearly 25,000 feet; it would be another sixty-three years before the author discovered his remains.
Providing critical instruction for anyone planning to travel over glacier country—from the Cascades to the Rockies to Denali—this book will guide and entertain readers through glacier anatomy, equipment, route finding, and rescue techniques.
On the 6th June 1924, mountaineers George Mallory and Sandy Irvine perished in their attempt to reach the summit of Everest.
Obsessed by uncovering what happened, in 1993 Graham Hoyland became the 15th Englishman to climb Everest. His investigations led to the finding of Mallory’s body; it will be his evidence that will recover Irvine’s.
‘Last Hours on Everest’ meticulously reconstructs that fateful day. Combining his own expert insight with the clues they left behind, Graham Hoyland at last answers the most intriguing of questions – did the two men actually reach the top of Everest?
The first comprehensive guide for climbing above 8,000 feet
The one-volume resource for any traveler who will be at high altitude for any period of time, this guide contains organized technical information from medical and science texts as well as anecdotes from real climbers who share their own experiences, in the body as well as the mind. This new book also lists preparation and training guidelines for ascending altitude, tips on how to acclimate, what to bring, how to "come down" after descent, and how to treat altitude sickness if it occurs. This is a practical guide for anyone new to such travel, as well as an up-to-date guide with new information for experienced climbers.
Mike Farris is a biology professor at Hamline University and an experienced high-altitude climber who has traveled throughout North America, South America and the Himalayas. He lives in Northfield, Minnesota.