*Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List*
A deeply rendered self-portrait of a lifelong surfer by the acclaimed New Yorker writer
Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships annealed in challenging waves.
Finnegan shares stories of life in a whitesonly gang in a tough school in Honolulu even while his closest friend was a Hawaiian surfer. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. He and a buddy, their knapsacks crammed with reef charts, bushwhack through Polynesia. They discover, while camping on an uninhabited island in Fiji, one of the world’s greatest waves. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he becomes an improbable anthropologist: unpicking the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissecting the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, navigating the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity.
Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little understood art. Today, Finnegan’s surfing life is undiminished. Frantically juggling work and family, he chases his enchantment through Long Island ice storms and obscure corners of Madagascar.
How did he get there? And more importantly, how can the rest of us join him?
Force of Nature is a detailed map to that destination, with Laird Hamilton as the reader's guide. It's not about chasing trophies or accolades or cash. It's about quality over quantity soul and being true to your physical, mental, and spiritual roots. Not only is it possible to thrive in the modern world without adopting its harmful habits, it's essential. And not only has Hamilton mastered this balance, he makes a compelling and articulate case that anyone who wants to can do the same.
This book is a deeply authoritative and cutting-edge guide to peak fitness in mind, body, soul, and surfing. It comes directly from the source and his inner circle, which includes those at the vanguard of sports, training, nutrition, and more. Former pro volleyball player Gabrielle Reece; surf legend Dave Kalama; fitness gurus Paul Chek, T.R. Goodman, and Don Wildman; and Food Network star Giada De Laurentiis all contribute their knowledge. Readers will get an all-access pass into an elite world filled with definitive and provocative ideas.
Eddie Would Go is the compelling story of Eddie Aikau's legendary life and legacy, a pipeline into the exhilarating world of surfing, and an important chronicle of the Hawaiian Renaissance and the emergence of modern Hawaii.
Moving a shipment of Thai sticks from northeast Thailand farms to American consumers meant navigating one of the most complex smuggling channels in the history of the drug trade. Many forget that until the mid-1970s, the vast majority of marijuana consumed in the United States was imported, and there was little to no domestic production.
Peter Maguire and Mike Ritter are the first historians to document this underground industry, the only record of its existence rooted in the fading memories of its elusive participants. Drawing on hundreds of interviews with smugglers and law enforcement agents, the authors recount the buy, delivery, voyage home, and product offload. They capture the eccentric personalities of the men and women who transformed the Thai marijuana trade from a GI cottage industry into a professionalized business moving the world's most lucrative commodities, unraveling a rare history from the smugglers' perspective.
In 1956, Dorian "Doc" Paskowitz stepped away from a successful medical practice and began a lifelong surfing odyssey that grew to include his wife Juliette, and their nine children. Together, the Paskowitz clan lived a vagabonding bohemian existence, eschewing material possessions in favor of intangible riches like health and good cheer . . . all the while careening along the world's coastlines in search of the perfect wave.
In Scratching the Horizon, Izzy Paskowitz looks back at his unusual upbringing, and his lifelong passion for the sport that carries his family's stamp. As the fourth-oldest child in a family of inveterate surfers, rock stars, and beach bums, he is uniquely qualified to shine a light on a childhood that has come to symbolize the surfing credo, a reckless young adulthood that nearly cost him his sanity, and a maturing sense of self and purpose that allows him to lift others on the back of his experience.
As the father of a son with autism and the founder of "Surfers Healing," a foundation devoted to expanding the horizons of children with autism through surfing, Paskowitz has found a way to connect the surreal aspects of his childhood to the harsh realities of adulthood, and he shares these discoveries in this wickedly entertaining and transforming memoir.
Long before Michael Phelps and Mark Spitz made their splashes in the pool, Kahanamoku emerged from the backwaters of Waikiki to become America’s first superstar Olympic swimmer. The original “human fish” set dozens of world records and topped the world rankings for more than a decade; his rivalry with Johnny Weissmuller transformed competitive swimming from an insignificant sideshow into a headliner event.
Kahanamoku used his Olympic renown to introduce the sport of “surf-riding,” an activity unknown beyond the Hawaiian Islands, to the world. Standing proudly on his traditional wooden longboard, he spread surfing from Australia to the Hollywood crowd in California to New Jersey. No American athlete has influenced two sports as profoundly as Kahanamoku did, and yet he remains an enigmatic and underappreciated figure: a dark-skinned Pacific Islander who encountered and overcame racism and ignorance long before the likes of Joe Louis, Jesse Owens, and Jackie Robinson.
Kahanamoku’s connection to his homeland was equally important. He was born when Hawaii was an independent kingdom; he served as the sheriff of Honolulu during Pearl Harbor and World War II and as a globetrotting “Ambassador of Aloha” afterward; he died not long after Hawaii attained statehood. As one sportswriter put it, Duke was “Babe Ruth and Jack Dempsey combined down here.”
In Waterman, award-winning journalist David Davis examines the remarkable life of Duke Kahanamoku, in and out of the water.
Despite its rebellious, outlaw reputation, or perhaps because of it, surfing occupies a central place in the American – and global – imagination, embodying the tension between romantic counterculture ideals and middle-class values, between an individualistic communion with nature and a growing commitment to commerce and technology. In examining the enduring widespread appeal of surfing in both myth and reality, The World in the Curl offers a fresh angle on the remarkable rise of the sport and its influence on modern life.
Drawing on Peter Westwick and Peter Neushul’s expertise as historians of science and technology, the environment, and the Cold War, as well as decades of experience as surfers themselves, The World in the Curl brings alive the colorful history of surfing by drawing readers into the forces that fueled the sport's expansion: colonialism, the military-industrial complex, globalization, capitalism, environmental engineering, and race and gender roles. In an engaging and provocative narrative history – from the spread of surfing to the United States, to the development of surf culture, to the reintroduction of women into the sport, to big wave frontiers – the authors draw an indelible portrait of surfing and surfers as actors on the global stage.
From the Hardcover edition.
For centuries, mariners have spun tales of gargantuan waves, 100-feet high or taller. Until recently scientists dismissed these stories—waves that high would seem to violate the laws of physics. But in the past few decades, as a startling number of ships vanished and new evidence has emerged, oceanographers realized something scary was brewing in the planet’s waters. They found their proof in February 2000, when a British research vessel was trapped in a vortex of impossibly mammoth waves in the North Sea—including several that approached 100 feet.
As scientists scramble to understand this phenomenon, others view the giant waves as the ultimate challenge. These are extreme surfers who fly around the world trying to ride the ocean’s most destructive monsters. The pioneer of extreme surfing is the legendary Laird Hamilton, who, with a group of friends in Hawaii, figured out how to board suicidally large waves of 70 and 80 feet. Casey follows this unique tribe of people as they seek to conquer the holy grail of their sport, a 100-foot wave.
In this mesmerizing account, the exploits of Hamilton and his fellow surfers are juxtaposed against scientists’ urgent efforts to understand the destructive powers of waves—from the tsunami that wiped out 250,000 people in the Pacific in 2004 to the 1,740-foot-wave that recently leveled part of the Alaskan coast.
Like Jon Krakauer’s Into Thin Air, The Wave brilliantly portrays human beings confronting nature at its most ferocious.
But Brandon's luck has just run out. He has agreed to the terms of an annual challenge with his brothers to conquer a woman from a chosen group, and in the process, finds himself facing a conundrum: while carrying out the dare with one woman, he realizes his feelings for a childhood friend, Erica, goes far beyond friendship—especially now that she's getting married.
Now, two gorgeous prizes are on the line, and it seems he can't win one without losing the other.
If he drops everything and goes after Erica, he loses the game. If he lets his fake relationship play out, he wins his older brother's stunning Hawaiian beach house, but he could lose Erica forever.
Brandon is used to surfing along wherever life wants to take him, but will he finally interrupt the flow and take a necessary risk?
A second chance love triangle romance.
NOTE: This is book 2 in The Billionaire's Desire series. Each book in the series can be read as a standalone, but it is best to read them in order for the full experience. All 3 books are available as a collection.
Tags: interracial love and romance, biracial heroine, black woman/white man, wealthy alpha male surfer, surfing, sports, mixed race, multicultural/multiracial/multiethnic relationships, short novella reads
Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell, is surfer and former war reporter Chas Smith’s wild and unflinching look at the high-stakes world of surfing on Oahu’s North Shore—a riveting, often humorous, account of beauty, greed, danger, and crime.
For two months every winter, when Pacific storms make landfall, swarms of mainlanders, Brazilians, Australians, and Europeans flock to Oahu’s paradisiacal North Shore in pursuit of some of the greatest waves on earth for surfing’s Triple Crown competition. Chas Smith reveals how this influx transforms a sleepy, laid-back strip of coast into a lawless, violent, drug-addled, and adrenaline-soaked mecca.
Smith captures this exciting and dangerous place where locals, outsiders, the surf industry, and criminal elements clash in a fascinating look at class, race, power, money, and crime, set within one of the most beautiful places on earth. The result is a breathtaking blend of crime and adventure that captures the allure and wickedness of this idyllic golden world.
But surfing like a pro isn’t just about courtesy, and neither is The Kook’s Guide to Surfing. The ultimate guide to great surfing, it’s got tips on choosing the right board for the right wave, stances and paddling, avoiding injuries and staying safe, and—once all that has been mastered—how and where to show off your skills in the big competitions. Other topics include:
First lessons and helpful tipsPhysical fitnessTypes of wavesSurf etiquetteBuying surfboardsAn index of the best surf locations
Filled with witty illustrations, a glossary of surfing terminology, and fun “Hey, Kook!” trivia, The Kook’s Guide to Surfing will turn even the greenest beginners into knockout surfing pros.
In Cliffs of Insanity, the Irish Times sportswriter Keith Duggan tells the story of a dedicated group of surfers in County Clare whose lives revolve around the pursuit of Ireland’s wildest waves. The book traces the evolution of Fergal Smith, the young Mayo man whose intuition for big waves has earned him a serious reputation and explores the world of Mickey Smith, the roving Cornish man who discovered Aileen’s and whose breathtaking surf photography has caught the Irish landscape in an entirely new and original light.
Bitter cold days, broken bones, busted boards, scars, near drownings and countless hours in the freezing water trying to read the ocean is the price they pay for those few transcendent seconds when they master a wave.
Cliffs of Insanity is about the importance of pursuing what matters in life but it is also about community and friendship, and the passionate pursuit of a way of life that flies in the face of everything championed in Ireland over the last decade.
Garrett McNamara—affectionately known as GMac—set the world record for the sport, surfing a seventy-eight-foot wave in Nazaré, Portugal in 2011, a record he smashed two years later at the same break. Propelled by the challenge and promise of bigger, more difficult waves, this adrenaline-fueled loner and polarizing figure travels the globe to ride the most dangerous swells the oceans have to offer, from calving glaciers to hurricane swells.
But what motivates McNamara to go to such extremes—to risk everything for one thrilling ride? Is riding giant waves the ultimate exercise in control or surrender?
Personal and emotional, readers will know GMac as never before, seeing for the first time the personal alongside the professional in an exciting, intimate look at what drives this inventive, iconoclastic man. Surfing awesome giants isn’t just thrill seeking, he explains—it’s about vanquishing fears and defeating obstacles past and present. Surfers and non-surfers alike will embrace McNamara’s story—as they have William Finnegan’s Barbarian Days—an its intimate look at the enigmatic pursuit of riding waves, big and small.
Hound of the Sea is a record of perseverance, passion, and healing. Thoughtful, suspenseful, and spiritually profound, McNamara reveals the beautiful soul of surfing through the eyes of one of its most daring and devoted disciples.
Who among us has not been paralyzed by fear? In The Fear Project, award-winning journalist and surfer Jaimal Yogis sets out to better understand fear--why does it so often dominate our lives, what makes it tick, and is there even a way to use it to our advantage? In the process, he plunges readers into great white shark-infested waters, brings them along to surf 40-foot waves in the dead of winter, and gives them access to some of the world's best neuroscience labs, psychologists, and extreme athletes. In this entertaining, often laugh-out-loud narrative, Yogis also treats himself like a guinea pig for all of his research, pushing his own fears repeatedly to the limits--in his sport, in his life, and in love. Ultimately, Yogis shares with his readers the best strategies to emerge triumphant from even the most paralyzing of fears.
The Fear Project gives readers insight into the following:How fear evolved in the human brainHow to tell the difference between "good fear" and "bad fear"How to use the latest neuroscience to transform fear memoriesWhy fear spreads between us and how to counteract fearful "group think"How to turn fear into a performance enhancer--athletically and at work
In pursuing this terrifying--and often thrilling--journey with Yogis, we learn how to move through fear and unlock a sense of renewed possibility and a more rewarding life.
Explore the history of Indonesia surfing and gain some insight from surfers alike. Surfing Indonesia takes you on a safari, an ultimate surfers dream; from the huge island of Sumatra in the west and Indonesia's "Far East" through Java, Bali, and Lombok Sumbawa.Detailed maps of important surfing sitesInsightful essays by surfers for surfersMore than 120 action pumped photographs
If you like surfing or you are an inspiring surfer; this book will help guide you through the tips and tricks of the sport, including travel advisories, medical precautions, and safety hazards signs. And of course the spectacular views and places to surf in Indonesia are will be made aware to you.
Author John Robison uses hundreds of pictures-- comical, cartoon-like drawings--to clearly illustrate every aspect of surfing: wave dynamics, riding techniques, etiquette, logistics, and more. This entertaining, easy-to-understand visual presentation makes it easy for you to pick up his techniques and use them on the waves.
Robison covers every aspect of the sport, from paddling out through the surf zone and catching and riding that first wave to nose riding, acrobatics, shortboard riding, and to equipment repairs.
From childhood, it was obvious that Clay Marzo’s single-minded focus on surfing was unique, his skills otherworldly. But the deeper reasons for this obsession didn’t become clear until his late teens, when Marzo was diagnosed with Asperger’s syndrome.
Marzo was already a surfing phenom, winning the National Scholastic Surfing Association championship at fifteen, but it was tough for him to relate to his peers and fit in. Only while surfing did he truly feel at peace. Just Add Water is the remarkable story of Marzo’s rise to the top of the pro surfing world—and the personal trials he overcame in making it there. Unflinching and inspiring, it is a brave memoir from a one-of-a-kind surfing savant who has electrified fans around the world and whose story speaks to the hope and ultimate triumph of the human spirit.
“Marzo is one of the most amazing surfers to come along in years. He’s fantastic—and so is this book. Great stuff.” —Peter Townend, 1976 world surfing champion
“An intriguing read for any surfer, and details the life of Clay Marzo with tact and illumination. Writing the biography of one of Hawaii's most exceptional surfers is a great responsibility, and Yehling did so in a real, raw way that captures the reader's attention.” —Freesurf
Written from personal experience, this book lets you in on the secrets to becoming a better surfer. Learn how to perform various manoeuvres with descriptions detailing the techniques that will help you progress to the next stages of your surfing.
This is a non ‘text-book’ lesson in REAL SURFING, helping you discover the tricks and tips only time in the water can reveal.
This revised 2nd edition includes more manouvres! This book now covers:
Paddling and Duck Diving
Paddling for a Wave
Pumping for Speed
Each section is accompanied by full colour pictures showing the techniques and manoeuvres in question along with detailed instruction on how to perform them.
Unlock your surfing potential!
Jeff Johnson, along with Chris, Keith, and Dan Malloy, experienced a road trip centered on surfing, climbing, and camping. Along the way, they met an array of characters, found rich, road-weathered experiences, and endured setbacks, all against the backdrop of a captivating ocean. Bend to Baja chronicles their journey and a nontraditional lifestyle centered on the search for waves.
In this brilliantly written travel adventure, journalist (and surfer) Michael Scott Moore visits unlikely surfing destinations--Israel and the Gaza Strip, West Africa, Great Britain, Germany, Indonesia, Japan, Cuba, and Morocco--to find out. Whether he is connecting eccentric surf legend Doc Paskowitz to the Arab-Israeli conflict, trying to deconstruct the terrorist bombing in a nightclub in Bali, or being chased by the German police while surfing a river break in Berlin, Moore masterfully weaves together politics, culture, history, and surfing to create a book like no other.
Readers follow the historical transformation of surfing s image through the centuries: from Polynesian myths of love to Western accounts of horror and exoticism in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, to modern representations of surfing as a character-building activity in pre-World-War II California and the quintessential expression of disaffected youth. They explore the sport s most recent trends by writers and cultural critics, whose insights into technology, competition, gender, heritage, and globalism reveal how surfing impacts some of today s most pressing social concerns.
Aided by informative introductions, the writings in Pacific Passages provide insight into the values and ideals of Polynesian and Western cultures, revealing how each has altered and been altered by surfing and how the sport itself has shown an amazing ability throughout the centuries to survive, adapt, and prosper."
Lonely Planet Nicaragua is your passport to the most relevant, up-to-date advice on what to see and skip, and what hidden discoveries await you. Kayak through Central America's largest mangrove forest, experience life on a coffee farm, or chill out on idyllic white-sand beaches; all with your trusted travel companion. Get to the heart of Nicaragua and begin your journey now!
Inside Lonely Planet Nicaragua:Color maps and images throughout Highlights and itineraries help you tailor your trip to your personal needs and interests Insider tips to save time and money and get around like a local, avoiding crowds and trouble spots Essential info at your fingertips - hours of operation, phone numbers, websites, transit tips, prices Honest reviews for all budgets - eating, sleeping, sight-seeing, going out, shopping, hidden gems that most guidebooks miss Cultural insights give you a richer, more rewarding travel experience - history, architecture, land & wildlife, arts, cuisine Over 45 maps Covers Managua, Masaya, Los Pueblos Blancos, Granada, Southwestern Nicaragua, Leon, Northwestern Nicaragua, Northern Highlands, Caribbean Coast, San Carlos, Islas Solentiname, the Río San Juan and more
eBook Features: (Best viewed on tablet devices and smartphones)Downloadable PDF and offline maps prevent roaming and data charges Effortlessly navigate and jump between maps and reviews Add notes to personalise your guidebook experience Seamlessly flip between pages Bookmarks and speedy search capabilities get you to key pages in a flash Embedded links to recommendations' websites Zoom-in maps and images Inbuilt dictionary for quick referencing
The Perfect Choice: Lonely Planet Nicaragua, our most comprehensive guide to Nicaragua, is perfect for both exploring top sights and taking roads less traveled.Looking for more extensive coverage? Check out Lonely Planet Central America on a Shoestring.
Authors: Written and researched by Lonely Planet
About Lonely Planet: Since 1973, Lonely Planet has become the world's leading travel media company with guidebooks to every destination, an award-winning website, mobile and digital travel products, and a dedicated traveler community. Lonely Planet covers must-see spots but also enables curious travelers to get off beaten paths to understand more of the culture of the places in which they find themselves.
*Best-selling guide to Nicaragua. Source: Nielsen BookScan. Australia, UK and USA
chronicles the true story of twin brothers Lee and Larry Williams, whose love of surfing evolved in the most unlikely of geographies: off the shores of Lake Michigan. From their boyhood home in Sheboygan, Wisconsin, the brothers trekked to the local beach with their longboards and their dreams to master the waves at spots like the Elbow and the Cove. The next six decades proved that their zeal for catching grinders and barrels was much more than a hobby.
Surfing in the cold had its challenges, and Lee and Larry recall stories of freak storms, ice-encrusted beaches, and near drownings, along with the usual hypothermia, helped but not cured by their customized cold-water wetsuits. Despite living nearly 2,000 miles from either coast, Lee and Larry have made a lifestyle out of freshwater surfing, recreating their hometown as "The Malibu of the Midwest" and gaining international fame as hosts of the Dairyland Surf Classic.
With humor and wit, author William Povletich brings their tale of revolutionizing surf culture to the page.
Join Rebecca and her friends at Trebizon Boarding School, perfect for fans of Enid Blyton’s Malory Towers and St Clare’s.
When Rebecca, Sue and Tish take up running, they never expect it to lead to an adventure. But that surprise is nothing compared to the shock of a film crew arriving at Trebizon! The crew film Margot surfing, Tish at the beach, and even Rebecca’s long-awaited tennis match with Joss Vining. But the Silent Eye film company is not all it seems. Can Rebecca and Tish save the day?
The tenth exciting book in the classic Trebizon series.
Praise for the Trebizon series:
‘As warm and comforting as a cup of cocoa, the Trebizon books are a real treat.’
Katherine Woodfine, author of The Mystery of the Clockwork Sparrow.
'An absolute hug of a book, this is school storytelling at its warm, delightful, comforting best.'
Robin Stevens, author of Murder Most Unladylike
Follow Rebecca and her friends through all the ups and downs of boarding school in:
First Term at Trebizon
Second Term at Trebizon
Summer Term at Trebizon
Boy Trouble at Trebizon
More Trouble at Trebizon
Tennis Term at Trebizon
Summer Camp at Trebizon
Into the Fourth at Trebizon
Hockey Term at Trebizon
Fourth Year Triumphs at Trebizon.
Anne Digby is the author of Trebizon, several titles in Enid Blyton’s Naughtiest Girl series and the Me, Jill Robinson series. She lives in East Sussex.
Meet Jake Danes of Hudson River—Lone Wolf, avid gamer, extreme sports enthusiast, and surfer. He’s spent the last two years roaming free, exploring the world and escaping the dark place his pack had become after betrayal and murder tore them apart. Sure, life changed back home, but Jake’s having way too much fun to return—riding the waves in Monterrey and living out of a van. It’s the perfect life, one he never wants to give up, no matter how many calls he’s fielding from his big brother…then he catches her scent.
Mimi Chase wanted one perfect year. Time away from pack politics and her mother’s matchmaking efforts. Ever since her big brother settled into mating with a healer, Mimi’s mom seems to have gone into overdrive—throwing her at every eligible male in the pack. Choosing to roam seemed the best option, and California the ideal location to get away from everything pack related. Her plans for art classes, yoga on the beach, maybe a cooking lesson or two while living a hippy dippy lifestyle are all she cares about…until another wolf butts into her every activity. Doesn’t he know the rules?
Lone Wolves aren’t supposed to form relationships, so why doesn’t he catch a hint? Worse, why isn’t she working harder to make sure he does?
"Surfers are a breed onto themselves and their homes . . . Nina Freudenberger has taken a good look at not only a number of these vastly different abodes but also a quick glimpse into the particular and even peculiar lives that are lived there. Because after all, to a surfer at least, surfing is the only life." –Gerry Lopez, renowned surfer, innovator, and author of Surf is Where You Find It
Join Periplus' team of knowledgeable authors-photographer-surfers as they take you on an action-filled tour of the remarkable island of Hawaii. Drop into stoking wave circumstances—hopping from north to south across the Hawaiian Islands—through the extraordinary birthplace of surfing.
This surfing guide contains:More than 140 action-charged photographsInsightful essays by surfers for surfersDetailed maps of important surf spotsUp-to-date travel advisoriesSurf, suft and more surf
If you like surfing or you are an inspiring surfer; this book will help guide you through the tips and tricks of the sport, including travel advisories, medical precautions, and safety hazards signs. And of course the spectacular views and places to surf in Indonesia are will be made aware to you.
Regarding the book, The Battle for Paradise by Jeremy Evans, the following correction has been made on page 163 in paragraph three (3) to wit:
“Weston once worked in concert with government officials in a pre-planned sting operation, complete with marked bills: Weston, whose role in the operation involved paying a bribe to the Golfito mayor for a concession and then documenting the bribe as a way to expose the mayor as a corrupt government official, was a former cocaine dealer, according to Dan, and someone who illegally acquired possession of his sawmill property.”
Pavones, a town located on the southern tip of Costa Rica, is a haven for surfers, expatriates, and fishermen seeking a place to start over. Located on the Golfo Dulce (Sweet Gulf), a marine sanctuary and one of the few tropical fjords in the world, Pavones is home to a legendary surf break and a cottage fishing industry. In 2004 a multinational company received approval to install the world’s first yellowfin tuna farm near the mouth of the Golfo Dulce. The tuna farm as planned would pollute the area, endanger sea turtles, affect the existing fish population, and threaten the world-class wave. A lawsuit was filed just in time, and the project was successfully stalled. Thus began an unlikely alliance of local surfers, fishermen, and global environmental groups to save a wave and one of the most biodiverse places on the planet. In The Battle for Paradise, Jeremy Evans travels to Pavones to uncover the story of how this ragtag group stood up to a multinational company and how a shadowy figure from the town’s violent past became an unlikely hero. In this harrowing but ultimately inspiring story, Evans focuses in turn on a colorful cast of characters with an unyielding love for the ocean and surfing, a company’s unscrupulous efforts to expand profits, and a government that nearly sold out the perfect wave.
than a sport—it is a Southern California lifestyle—and as such has heavily influenced the beach towns throughout the county. Much research points to surfing having come to Southern California in 1907,
and it may have taken hold in San Diego as early as 1910. Join with us in this wonderful pictorial journey through San Diego’s little-known surfing past.
Packed with stories of surf innovators, entrepreneurs, and legends, Make Your Own Waves reveals 10 rules of the water, including:
Learn to swim—the basics set the stage for everythingGet wet—you can’t succeed if you stick to the shoreAlways look “outside”—watch for what’s coming or you may miss a better opportunityCommit, charge, shred—you have to go all out to be all inNever turn your back on the ocean—always stay in touch with the marketplace and the customerStay stoked—desire drives success
Even the best surfers fall, but they learn from their wipeouts and paddle back out to once again push the edge, knowing that with big waves come big opportunities.
With stunning photography, each part reviews one of the four main disciplines within the sport: Freestyle, Waveriding, Wakestyle and Course Racing. Within each part is a background to the discipline, the kit, profiles of prime locations, key events and some of the riders and brands who have come to define the sport.
With over 200 shots from the best photographers in the game, and comprehensive access to all of the main players within the sport, author Alex Hapgood has ensured that Kiteboarding: Where it's at... is the most comprehensive and visually stunning representation of the sport to date.
'An excellent overview of our sport with great imagery. Essential reading.
'A beautiful and comprehensive look at kiting. Drawn from a broad collection of the sport's best shooters, this book is full of great images of a strikingly visual and technically challenging sport.'
'Kiteboarding: Where it's at… is a great representation of our sport. It's awesome to have a book like this that shows the roots of the sport and what it has become today. Stunning photography and a real achievement.'
Keahi de Aboitiz
Cocaine-smuggling submarines, illegal longline fishermen, sharks, Leatherback Turtles, the U.S. Navy, drug cartels, corrupt government officials, helicopter dogfights, shoulder-fired missiles, gunfights, a monster bull, high-performance motocross bikes, giant wave surfing and more come into play as the Johnsons traverse the exotic landscapes of Costa Rica in an epic fight to survive when circumstances take a dark turn.
Will their black belts in the Korean martial art of Taekwondo make the difference as the Johnsons are pursued by lethal assassins that include a professional Mexican luchador, a Brazilian Capoeira death match fighter and a machete-wielding Nicaraguan Contra guerilla?
Nonstop action and nail-biting cliff hangers abound as the Johnsons’ travails take them from Playa Grande, to Ollie’s Point, to the Arenal Volcano and points in between.
Early Retirement in Costa Rica is the perfect pulp fiction-meets-action adventure reading for your vacation getaway!
An absolute bible for beginners the next best thing to a private coach' Realsurf.com
All over the world, girls are grabbing their boards and hitting the surf. No longer content to watch from the beach, they're getting out there and mixing it up with the boys in ever-increasing numbers. If you're keen to join in the fun, carve graceful lines across the face of a wave and experience the exhilaration of surfing, read on.
The world's first-ever surfing guide for girls, Surf's Up has now been fully revised and updated, taking you through all the practicalities of learning to surf -- from getting over your fear of sharks to buying your first surfboard, finding the right waves, paddling out and standing up. There's advice about looking after yourself while you're having fun in the sea, how to find friends to surf with and surfing etiquette, as well as an inspirational look at the history of women's surfing, plus loads of tips to take your surfing to the next level. This edition also includes new sections on yoga for surfers, stand-up paddleboarding, combining surfing and motherhood, and being a sustainable surfer.
But Surf's Up is more than just a how-to guide. Louise Southerden brings her love of surfing to every page, offering insights into the fascinating world of surfing sub-culture and a welcoming hand to every wannabe wahine.
Encouraging and empowering, Surf's Up is a book no surfer girl should be without.