Freedom Climbers

Rocky Mountain Books Ltd
4

Winner! 2012 American Alpine Club Literary Prize (USA)

Winner! 2011 Munday Award, Banff Mountain Festival (CANADA)

Winner! 2011 Boardman Tasker Prize, Kendal Mountain Festival (UNITED KINGDOM)

Freedom Climbers—the most honoured book of mountaineering literature published in Canada—tells the story of a group of extraordinary Polish adventurers who emerged from under the blanket of oppression following the Second World War to become the world's leading Himalayan climbers. Although they lived in a dreary, war-ravaged landscape, with seemingly no hope of creating a meaningful life, these curious, motivated and skilled mountaineers created their own free-market economy under the very noses of their Communist bosses and climbed their way to liberation. At a time when Polish citizens were locked behind the Iron Curtain, these intrepid explorers found a way to travel the world in search of extreme adventure—to Alaska, South America and Europe, but mostly to the highest and most inspiring mountains of the world. To this end, Afghanistan, India, Pakistan and Nepal became their second homes as they evolved into the toughest group of Himalayan climbers the world has ever known.

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About the author

Bernadette McDonald is the founding vice-president of Mountain Culture at the Banff Centre and author of seven books on international mountaineering, including Toma* Humar (Random House UK, 2008); Brotherhood of the Rope (The Mountaineers Books, 2007) and I’ll Call You in Kathmandu (The Mountaineers Books, 2005). McDonald is the winner of numerous awards, including Italy’s ITAS Prize for mountain writing (2010) and is a two-time winner of India’s Kekoo Naoroji Award for Mountain Literature (2009 and 2008). She has also received the Alberta Order of Excellence (2010), the Summit of Excellence Award from the Banff Centre (2007), the King Albert Award for international leadership in the field of mountain culture and environment (2006), and the Queen’s Golden Jubilee Medal (2002). Freedom Climbers is her first book with RMB.

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Reviews

3.8
4 total
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Additional Information

Publisher
Rocky Mountain Books Ltd
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Published on
Jul 29, 2011
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Pages
352
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ISBN
9781926855615
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Language
English
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Genres
Sports & Recreation / Mountaineering
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Content Protection
This content is DRM protected.
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Available on Android devices
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Bernadette McDonald
In August, 2005, Tomaž Humar was trapped on a narrow ledge at 5900 metres on the formidable Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat. He had been attempting a new route, directly up the middle of the highest mountain face in the world - solo. After six days he was out of food, almost out of fuel and frequently buried by avalanches. Three helicopters were poised for a brief break in the weather to pluck him off the mountain. Because of the audacity of the climb, the fame of the climber, the high risk associated with the rescue, and the hourly reports posted on his base-camp website, the world was watching. Would this be the most spectacular rescue in climbing history? Or a tragic - and very public - death in the mountains?

Years before, as communism was collapsing and the Balkans slid into chaos, Humar was unceremoniously conscripted into a dirty war that he despised, where he observed brutal and inhumane atrocities that disgusted him. Finally he did the unthinkable: he left and finally arrived home in what had become a new country - Slovenia.

He returned to climbing, and within very few years, he was among the best in the world. Reinhold Messner, among others, called him the most remarkable mountain climber of his generation. His routes are seldom repeated; most consider them to be suicidal; yet he often climbs them solo. As this book was being written, he achieved the first-ever solo ascent of the east summit of Annapurna.

Tomaž Humar has cooperated with Bernadette McDonald, the distinguished former director of the Banff Festival and author of several books on mountaineering, to tell his utterly remarkable story.

Bernadette McDonald
Au lendemain de la Seconde Guerre mondiale, la Yougoslavie connut une période de calme relatif sous la férule de Tito et permettra à l'alpinisme de haut niveau de s'y développer de manière spectaculaire.

Grâce au soutien de l'État, les grimpeurs yougoslaves réalisèrent d'impressionnantes ascensions en Himalaya. Ces expéditions étaient largement dominées par les Slovènes, qui avaient pu s'entraîner sur les parois verticales des Alpes juliennes, qui constituent l'essentiel de leur pays. Mais la mort de Tito, en 1980, mit fin à cette période de calme. La Yougoslavie se désintégra dans les conflits inter-ethniques et le déclin économique. En 1991, la Slovénie devint indépendante. Le nouveau pays continua à sponsoriser ses grimpeurs, qui multiplièrent les ascensions d'avant-garde les plus spectaculaires. Si bien qu'en 1995 tous les sommets de plus de 8 000 mètres avaient été gravis par ces remarquables alpinistes slovènes, dont la plupart étaient inconnus en Occident. Les Guerriers de l'Alpe nous ouvre l'âge d'or de l'alpinisme slovène à travers le regard de l'un des plus grands grimpeurs et écrivains du pays, Nejc Zaplotnik. Son livre "La Voie" est un classique de la littérature slovène, non seulement pour les alpinistes, mais aussi pour les citoyens ordinaires. Ses écrits et son esprit forment un fil d'Ariane qui traverse Les Guerriers de l'Alpe, et ouvre la porte des âmes de ces grimpeurs des Balkans.

La saga méconnue des alpinistes slovènes, formidables pionniers de l’Himalaya qui, malgré les tourments de l’ex-Yougoslavie, ont ébloui le monde de l’alpinisme.

EXTRAIT

Je me frayai un chemin dans la poudreuse d’une tempête de neige de fin d’été, à la recherche du câble fixé sur l’arête étroite qui mène au sommet du Triglav, le plus haut sommet de Slovénie. Progressant avec précaution, je rejoignis Aljaž Tower, la petite tourelle métallique qui couronne le sommet. Cette modeste structure est pour tous les Slovènes l’un des symboles de leur souveraineté territoriale : en réponse à l’oppression de l’étranger, le prêtre Jakob Aljaž avait bel et bien acheté le sommet du Triglav pour un florin, en 1895, comme pour dire « nous sommes les maîtres de nos terres ».
Parvenue au sommet, je n’en crus pas mes yeux. Une petite foule était rassemblée près de la tour, bavarde et joyeuse, des dizaines de personnes qui pique-niquaient et fêtaient leur ascension. Des étudiants lançaient des boules de neige et faisaient les clowns devant les caméras. Une vieille femme, entourée de ses deux guides, pleurait doucement. Un sourire radieux éclairait le visage d’un homme qui n’avait ni bras ni jambes.
Je me dirigeai vers un groupe de jeunes grimpeurs.
— Est-ce une sorte de fête nationale ? demandai-je.
— Pas du tout, répondit une femme d’allure particulièrement athlétique. C’est juste le week-end.
— Mais pourquoi y a-t-il tant de monde ?
— Parce que c’est le week-end et que nous avons le temps, répéta-t-elle, avec un sourire indulgent. Nous sommes des Slovènes, et ici, c’est le Triglav. C’est notre devoir de le gravir. Chaque Slovène doit le gravir au moins une fois.

À PROPOS DE L'AUTEUR

Bernadette McDonald est la fondatrice du Festival du film de montagne de Banff (Canada) et l'auteur de nombreux livres de montagne, dont Libres comme l'air (2014), une histoire de l'alpinisme polonais qui a remporté de nombreux prix littéraires, dont les prestigieux Grand Prix de Passy (France), Boardman Tasker (Royaume-Uni) et Banff Festival (Canada).
Bernadette McDonald

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"One of the most important mountaineering books to be written for many years." —Boardman-Tasker Prize

See this book trailer for Freedom Climbers made by RMB Books, its publisher in Canada, where the cover is slightly different from the Mountaineers Books U.S. edition


* Behind the Iron Curtain, Cold War mountaineers found freedom on the world's highest peaks—and paid an awful price to achieve it
* Winner of the Boardman-Tasker Prize, Banff Grand Prize, and American Alpine Club Literary Award

Freedom Climbers tells the story of Poland's truly remarkable mountaineers who dominated Himalayan climbing during the period between the end of World War II and the start of the new millennium. The emphasis here is on their "golden age" in the 1980s and 1990s when, despite the economic and social baggage of their struggling country, Polish climbers were the first to tackle the world's highest mountains during winter, including the first winter ascents on seven of the world's fourteen 8000-meter peaks: Everest, Manaslu, Dhaulagiri, Cho Oyu, Kanchenjunga, Annapurna, and Lhotse. Such successes, however, came at a serious cost: 80 percent of Poland's finest high-altitude climbers died on the high mountains during the same period they were pursuing these first ascents.

Award-winning writer Bernadette McDonald addresses the social, political, and cultural context of this golden age, and the hardships of life under Soviet rule. Polish climbers, she argues, were so tough because their lives at home were so tough—they lost family members to World War II and its aftermath and were so much more poverty-stricken than their Western counterparts that they made much of their own climbing gear. While Freedom Climbers tells the larger story of an era, McDonald shares charismatic personal narratives such as that of Wanda Rutkiewicz, expected to be the first woman to climb all 8000-meter peaks until she disappeared on Kanchenjunga in 1992; Jerzy Kukuczka, who died in a fall while attempting the south face of Lhotse; and numerous other renowned climbers including Voytek Kurtyka, Artur Hajzer, Andrej Zawaka, and Krzysztof Wielicki.

This is a fascinating window into a different world, far-removed from modernity yet connected by the strange allure of the mountain landscape, and a story of inspiring passion against all odds.



This title is part of our LEGENDS AND LORE series. Click here > to learn more.
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