Making a pierced brooch is the first problem. You learn to affix a tracing of the design to the metal, and to handle a center punch, saw frame and saw, needle file and flat-round file, and emery cloth. This first problem is fully illustrated, as are all the problems, with 53 different design ideas, as well as photographs of the tools and processes involved. Subsequent problems teach you to make brooches set with stones, chased and repoussé brooches, wire pendants, rings with four different types of settings, chains, and cuff links. Executing these pieces teaches you the processes of soldering, pickling, using a gas jet and blow pipe, making a plain and shouldered bezel, annealing, enameling, making a mold for casting, and much more.
Following the section on the making of jewelry, the authors turn to a discussion of the aesthetics of jewelry design. They suggest sources in nature and in art for creative ideas and motifs, and give helpful methods for developing these into designs suitable for various types of jewelry pieces.
The authors, both formerly of the Rhode Island School of Design, animate every line of the text with the knowledge that only long experience in the craft and in teaching the craft can give. For many years, beginning and experienced crafters have kept this authoritative text beside them, using it to avoid costly mistakes and to save many hours of trial-and-error experimentation.
The author, who, among his other achievements, was responsible for reconstruction work on the Sutton Hoo treasure in the British Museum (and was awarded the Order of the British Empire for his work), treats every aspect of the craft in detail, from basic tools to casting and enameling in separate sections. After discussing materials and tools, he provides a treatment of soldering in rare metals that is more extensive, more thorough, and richer in practical advice than can be found elsewhere. He continues into filigree work, the setting of stones, raising and shaping, spinning, repoussé work, wire twisting, hinges and joints, inlaying and overlaying, niello, alloys and stratified fabrics, enameling (including cloisonné, plique-à-jour, champlevé, bassetaille, encrusted and painted enamels), metal casting, construction, setting out, polishing and coloring, design, and assaying and hallmarking. Wherever possible, he analyzes examples of fine craftsmanship, ancient and modern, to illustrate practical aspects of the process he is explaining. Helpful hints are included on shop set-up and safety. The vastness of the author's experience in the actual work, with his authoritative knowledge of the entire field, ensures that readers of Metalwork and Enamelling are being advised and guided by a renowned expert.
Over 300 figures and photographs amplify the discussion of tools, materials, and construction. Tables and standards useful to the craftsman (melting points and weights of metals, for example) are included. Notes to the photographic plates describe the objects in detail — magnificent examples of craftsmanship throughout the ages. Both complete and concise, this book belongs close to every rare metals workshop, laboratory, museum shop, and craft center.
The Jewelry Maker's Field Guide walks you through the variety of metalworking tools available and offers guidance on setting up a studio, buying and organizing supplies, and determining what tools to buy and when. Organizing tools by basic functions, Helen offers a solid and logical overview of metalworking techniques and teaches sets of related skills, showing how different tools can sometimes achieve the same end. Each chapter includes stepped demos and applied techniques for using particular tools. The book culminates in projects that combine a variety of techniques and allow the reader to further apply and practice their metalworking skills.
Get a solid foundation for understanding the basic (and not so basic) processes of metalwork!