* Includes technical photographs, charts, and illustrations
* Contributing photography and advice from Dave Graham, Daniel Woods, Jamie Emerson, and many others
* Appendix highlights top bouldering destinations all over the world
Bouldering: Movement, Tactics, and Problem Solving demonstrates not just the basics of how to boulder, but also how to get better at it and take it to the next level. Whether you're a beginning climber who just started at the local gym, a competitive sport climber looking for a new challenge, or an aging alpinist who needs to take a season off from high-altitude, this guidebook offers something for everyone pursuing the art of bouldering: gear, movement, tactics, training, injury prevention, competitions, and more.
Contributing photography and insights come from climbers such as Dave Graham, Jamie Emerson, Paul Robinson, Chris Schulte, Daniel Woods, Ty Landman, and many others, and an appendix highlights many of the top bouldering destinations all over the world.
PETER BEAL has been climbing for more than 30 years and has focused on the sport of bouldering from the very start. Although he has bouldered at most of the major areas in the United states, he can most often be found climbing in his home state of Colorado, where he lives in Boulder with his family. A previous contributor to Rock and Ice, Climbing, Alpinist, and UKClimbing.com, you can follow his writing at MountainsandWater.com.
* Skills and strategies unique to big walls -- illustrated in full color
* Includes modern speed and free climbing tactics that have revolutionized wall climbing
* Key training exercises (practiced near the ground) and real life examples reinforce instruction
Dangling sweaty-palmed from a 3000-foot cliff for days on end, Jared Ogden taught himself to climb his first big wall by trial and error. Why should you have to do the same? Ogden, who has climbed El Capitan's Nose in less than twenty-four hours, wants to jump-start your education.
Whether you're a weekend warrior or a full-on wall addict, you'll learn the tools of the trade and how to use them; different leading and hauling scenarios and why some are better suited than others; multiple following set-ups for different terrain; how to choose your partners and routes; staying on route; how to live on a wall; the steps involved in doing first ascents; big wall style and ethics; and more. Ogden will have you racked and ready for prime big wall climbing destinations in North America including Yosemite, Zion, Rocky Mountain, and the Black Canyon of Gunnison National Parks; the Alaskan Range; and the Bugaboos of British Columbia.
* Surpasses other training guides with a new level of instruction, clarity, and safety
* "Key Transition Exercises" teach the skills you'll need to move from gym climbing to rock climbing
* Climbing technique illustrated with more than 150 photos
* Complements any indoor or outdoor climbing course
Getting strong and learning to climb hard routes in the gym doesn't prepare you for climbing outdoors where anything can happen. Climbing: From Gym to Crag is written by experts who teach climbing for a living. These long-time instructors have a clear, practical understanding of the different skills and climbing technique needed to go from climbing in the gym to climbing on real rock. From building anchors to leading and self-rescue, they'll teach you how to make the transition safely.
Part of the Mountaineers Outdoor Expert series
* Climbing etiquette you won’t learn at the gym but need to know
* Advice from “Rock Maestros” Justen Sjong, Kevin Jorgeson, Tommy Caldwell, Robyn Ebersfeld and experts at the Access Fund, Black Diamond, Leave No Trace, and more
* Mix of lore, how-to, humor, and entertainment — a reference book that’s easy to read and makes for good campfire talk
Dogs at the trailhead, belayers in lawn chairs, long lines queued up at the classics in Eldorado Canyon — the crags seem more crowded and more crazy than ever. In fact, according to the Outdoor Industry association, in the United States more than 3.6 million people participated in climbing in 2011. Many of these new climbers are entering outdoor climbing solely through rock gyms, without having the opportunity to apprentice with an experienced friend or mentor— resulting in climbing accidents and conflicts. How do you become a responsible crag citizen?
Crag Survival Handbook: The Unspoken Rules of Climbing is longtime climber Matt Samet’s personal handbook to becoming a member of the climbing community. While Samet discusses key skills like movement, dealing with fear, gear management, and how to fall, he also delves into crag culture: ethics, access, dealing with conflict, dogs and kids at the crags, and Leave No trace practices. Samet lays out the unspoken rules you need to know.
* Heads up! Safety, Hazards, and Basic Crag Awareness
* Etiquette, Access, and Impact: You’re Not the Only Fish in the Aquarium
* Movement PhD: Crouch Like a Tiger, Hide Like a Dragon
* Become a Rock Ninja: Tricks of the Cragger’s Trade
Crag Survival Handbook guides you through the essential questions, even the questions you didn’t know you had, just like a personal climbing mentor would — minute by minute, hour by hour, skill by skill.
Among the guest contributors for this new edition are top boulderers Paul Robinson, the 2008 ABS national champion, writing on gyms and competitions; and Angie Payne, the first American female to climb V13, who shares a woman's perspective on bouldering. More than 300 new color photos taken at the most popular bouldering locales throughout America and the world clearly demonstrate in dramatic fashion the concepts explained in the always entertaining text.
Rock climbing is one of the most physically challenging sports, testing strength, endurance, flexibility, and stamina. Good climbers have to build and maintain each of these assets. This is the first-ever book to provide climbers of all ages and experience with the knowledge and tools to design and follow a comprehensive, personalized exercise program.
Part One covers the basics of physical conditioning and goal-setting. Part Two takes readers through warm-up and flexibility routines, entry-level strength training, weight loss tips, and fifteen core-conditioning exercises. Part Three details climbing-specific conditioning, with twenty exercises to target specific muscles of the fingers, arms and upper torso to develop power and endurance. An entire chapter focuses on the antagonist muscle groups that help provide balance and stability, and prevent muscle injury. This section also has a chapter devoted to stamina conditioning, increasing the climber's endurance at high altitudes. Part Four shows how to put together a customized training program to suit the climber's needs. The book includes workout sheets for Beginner, Intermediate, and Advanced skill levels, tips for children and those over age fifty, secrets of good nutrition and an insider's take on avoiding injuries.
Eric Hörst is a performance coach who has helped thousands of climbers. His published works include Learning to Climb Indoors, Training for Climbing, and How to Climb 5.12. He lives in Lancaster, Pennsylvania.