Prague: The Mystical City

ยท Plunkett Lake Press
ืกืคืจ ื“ื™ื’ื™ื˜ืœื™
163
ื“ืคื™ื
ื›ืฉื™ืจ

ืžื™ื“ืข ืขืœ ื”ืกืคืจ ื”ื“ื™ื’ื™ื˜ืœื™ ื”ื–ื”

There is a strange triality in Pragueโ€™s history โ€” Czechs, Germans, Jews; Catholicism, Protestantism, Judaism; rulers, nobles, peasants; Romanesque, Gothic, Baroque. Joseph Wechsberg penetrates Pragueโ€™s world to recapture an extraordinary cultural, spiritual, political, artistic and embattled past. Prague was the home of Kafka, Rilke, Neruda andย Werfel, of โ€œhereticโ€ Jan Hus, of โ€œGood King (and later Saint) Wenceslasโ€; the inspiration of Mozart; the mecca of alchemists, astronomers and adventurers; it gave birth to folklore, fantasy and bizarre facts, such as the Golem, a manlike figure of clay that was brought to life by its alleged creator, โ€œHigh Rabbiโ€ Loew, in the 16th century. She was the first town in Central Europe with paved streets that were regularly cleaned (1340). The Thirty Yearsโ€™ War began and ended in Prague. And it was here that the Counter-Reformation reached its brutal climax.


The city comes alive, from its founder Charles IV, Holy Roman Emperor who made Prague the cultural center of Europe; the Hussite Era; the 300 years of Habsburg domination that followed; to the great Republic of humanist-philosopherย Tomรกลก Garrigue Masaryk, the horrors of Nazi occupation and, finally, the gray realities of communism, and the 1968 โ€œPrague Springโ€ which began with Dubฤek, ended with the invasion by the Warsaw Pact troops and Jan Palachโ€˜s self-immolation on January 16, 1969.


โ€œNothing is clear and simple in Prague; everything is enigmatic and complex. The cityโ€™s thousand-year-old history is constant flux and reflux, love and hatred, struggle and synthesis, contrast and symbiosis. Princes fight tribal leaders, kings fight the Estates, feudal rulers fight the upcoming bourgeoisie, the city fights the countryside, haves fight the have-nots. More recently, Czechs have fought Czechs. The social struggles have ended with the conversion of former have-nots into haves, and vice versa โ€” but for how long? There are religious struggles throughout the centuries: pagans against Christians, Christians against โ€œhereticโ€ Christians, Utraquists against Jesuits, Christians against Jews... Today Prague is a Czech city but it would be wrong to write the story of Prague as a Czech city, or as a German city, or as a Jewish city. Prague is all three... Prague always was either battlefield or symbiosis... Tolerance was never widespread in this city of cruel passions where the bizarre nomenclature reflects history... The story of Prague depends on who writes it.โ€ โ€”ย Joseph Wechsberg,ย Prague: The Mystical City


โ€œJoseph Wechsberg... wrote compellingly of [Prague,] this compelling city.โ€ โ€” Henry Kamm,ย The New York Times


โ€œ[G]raceful and immaculately styled.โ€ โ€”ย Kirkus

ืขืœ ื”ืžื—ื‘ืจ

Joseph Wechsbergย (1907-1983) was born to Jewish parents in Ostrava, Moravia, a part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. His grandfather had been a prosperous banker, but the family assets were lost in World War I. Wechsberg attended Prague University Law School, Viennaโ€™s State Academy of Music, and the Sorbonne. A lawyer for a short while, he worked as a musician on ocean liners and played the violin in Paris nightclubs. In Prague, he became a reporter for theย Prager Tagblatt. In 1938 he was a lieutenant in the Czechoslovak army commanding a machine gun company on the Polish frontier and was sent with his wife to the United States to discuss the Sudeten crisis. Both requested asylum after World War II broke out. In 1939, Wechsberg knew only a few hundred words in English, but decided he would someday write forย The New Yorker. In 1943, he was drafted into the US Army and sent to Europe as a technical sergeant in psychological warfare. His account of getting back to Ostrava was the first ofย over one hundred pieces forย The New Yorkerย over three decades โ€” profiles of Artur Rubinstein, Isaac Stern, George Szell, of merchant bankers and of great French restaurateurs, and letters from Berlin, Karlsbad, Bonn, Vienna, Trieste, Budapest, Belgrade, Ankara, Bucharest, Warsaw, Athens, and Baghdad. He also contributed hundreds of articles to magazines such asย Gourmet,ย Esquire,ย Playboy,ย The Atlanticย andย The Saturday Evening Postย and wrote features on cuisine and travel throughout Europe.

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