The Last Collection

Jeanne Mackin

Jun 2019 · Sold by Penguin

About this ebook

An American woman becomes entangled in the intense rivalry between iconic fashion designers Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli in this captivating novel from the acclaimed author of The Beautiful American.

Paris, 1938. Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli are fighting for recognition as the most successful and influential fashion designer in France, and their rivalry is already legendary. They oppose each other at every turn, in both their politics and their designs: Chanel’s are classic, elegant, and practical; Schiaparelli’s bold, experimental, and surreal.

When Lily Sutter, a recently widowed young American teacher, visits her brother, Charlie, in Paris, he insists on buying her a couture dress—a Chanel. Lily, however, prefers a Schiaparelli. Charlie’s beautiful and socially prominent girlfriend soon begins wearing Schiaparelli’s designs as well, and much of Paris follows in her footsteps. 

Schiaparelli offers budding artist Lily a job at her store, and Lily finds herself increasingly involved with Schiaparelli and Chanel’s personal war. Their fierce competition reaches new and dangerous heights as the Nazis and the looming threat of World War II bear down on Paris.

Ratings and reviews

“The only thing worse than having people talk about you is not having them talk about you- Oscar Wilde” As a plus sized woman, I would have never fit into either Chanel or Schiaparelli, but that has never stopped my love of all things couture, especially Chanel. In this book, the story of French couture houses before, during and after World War 2, focuses on the two doyennes of Fashion: the simple clean Chanel and the harlequinesque Schiaparelli, how the rules the fashion world despite their politics and the rivalry. It trickled down from these two powerhouses to the women they designed for. One would never be caught in the other’s designs in a world that sized you up based on how you looked. Jeanne Mackin tells this story through women's’ eyes; through one particular artist’s eyes, having her befriend both rivals. However, Lily Sutter is also in love with Paris, who becomes as much a rival for her attention as well as another character in the book.

Essentially a story told by Lily Sutter, recently widowed American Artist, now teaching in a school for girls and the tangled connections she finds when meeting her younger brother in Paris just as Hitler is starting his rise to prominence. But overarching the story of the designers and their blood feud (yes, it got that bad) is the story of Lily and her witnessing the events, failings, struggles and dangers that will face them all as Hitler rises to power. Her brother Charlie, handsome, medical student, charming, and the last family Lily has left has fallen in love with a married woman in Paris – a woman who holds secrets and several intriguing connections for the time. But, her biggest input at the start is the introduction to the ateliers she can provide, particularly to that of Elsa Schiaparelli. Instantly, Lily is drawn into the feud between Schiap and Chanel – while we all know the Chanel lines and symbols, Schiaparelli’s designs were filled with messages and humor, whimsical while still being relevant and beautiful: clothes that drew inspiration from the politics of the day and Schiap’s own particular history: raised in wealth in Italy, access to the best schooling and art, always feeling secure. This allowed her freedoms with color, a bit of a ‘thumb your nose’ at the traditional and more ‘staid’ color combinations of Chanel and other designers of the day. Through it all, Lily, trying to reignite her own artistic abilities and her own fascinations with color is drawn into friendships and schemes that involve the two. Ultimately, the threat of Nazi Germany does prove to be too much for safety, with Charlie off to fight in the war after his assignation with Ania (married, wealthy, former mistress of a propaganda officer for the Nazis) and her task to keep Schiaparelli’s daughter Marie (also known as Gogo) safe from harm, she returns to the US, to start again. Different, changed yet ultimately more herself than she’d been since the loss of her husband. This story winds through moments as if a mystery is there to be sorted, yet there is no doubt in the readers mind that with the omnipresent threat from the German occupation will cause great hardships, dangers and challenges, and not everyone will emerge unscathed or untouched. Insets of Paris, pre-and post-war, the fashion industry heyday in the late 1930’s when compared to post-war, the collaboration accusations and insinuations and the fates of all are present and while drawn from real life, the weight of these events, the power of constantly being on your guard and watching every move, word and action are brought home in very palpable ways in this book. I knew Schiaparelli from spending time in Paris and my Uncle’s discussion of the city and the glory pre-war, but these glimpses into two actual lives (Chanel and Schiaparelli) through the eyes of an outsider granted access was wonderfully gripping and enlightening. I received an eArc copy of the title from the publisher via NetGalley for purpose of honest review. I was not compensated for this review: all conclusions are my own responsibility.

The Last Collection by Jeanne Mackin is historical fiction that will make you fall in love with Paris and the fashion industry. Ms. Mackin’s words are as entrancing as the time and place she is writing about. She describes life in Paris with all the controversies in society before Germany invaded during WWII. The characters quarrel about love, fashion, politics around the world in the 1930‘s to 1950‘s. Their lives are touched by joy, tragedy, sorrow, betrayal and enduring love. I received a complimentary copy of this book from Edelweiss. Opinions expressed in this review are completely my own. I appreciate the opportunity and thank the author and publisher for allowing me to read, enjoy and review this book. 4.5 Stars

About the author

Jeanne Mackin is the author of several historical novels, including The Beautiful American. She taught creative writing at Goddard College and has given numerous workshops. She lives with her husband in upstate New York.