Surfer's Code

Patrick J. Moser

sept. 2009 · Gibbs Smith

À propos de cet ebook

In Surfers Code, world champion surfer Shaun Tomson shares the life lessons hes gathered from decades of surfingfrom his boyhood adventures in South Africa to the world tour in the late 1970s to the business world today. For Tomson, surfing is a hobby, a sport, a religion, an obsession, and moreit is a way of life. Tomsons life lessons have guided his career to the top of both professional competition and the world of business. These lessons are born of the collective wisdom of the surf community and are a powerful source of inspiration in the face of extraordinary challenges of everyday life. I will never turn my back on the ocean I will paddle around the impact zone I will take the drop with commitment I will never fight a rip tide I will watch out for other surfers There will always be another wave I will always ride into shore I will honor the sport of kings I will pass along my stroke I will catch a wave every day All surfers are connected by one ocean In a new epilogue, Tomson tells about light as a symbol of hopethrough his very personal experiences of a wipeout, the loss of one precious son, and the arrival of another son. Shaun Tomson was 1977 World Champion on the International Professional Surfing Tour. A native of South Africa, he spent fourteen years on the World Tour (1976?1989). He has been featured in more than forty surf videos and starred in the surf movie In Gods Hands. He was listed as one of the twenty-five most influential surfers of the century (Surfer, 1999) and one of the sixteen greatest surfers of all time (Surfing, 2004). He is currently Chairman of the Advisory Board for the Surfrider Foundation and owns his own apparel company, Solitude, in Santa Barbara, California. Patrick Moser, PhD, has written articles on surfing that have appeared in Surfer, Surf Life for Women, and the Surfers Journal. He currently teaches at Drury University in Springfield, Missouri, where he is Chair of the Department of Languages and teaches a course on the history and culture of surfing. Powerful lessons for surfing, business, and life from world champion surfer Shaun Tomson.

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Patrick Moser, PhD, has written articles on surfing that have appeared in Surfer, Surf Life for Women, and the Surfer's Journal. His abbreviated history of surfing will appear in the forthcoming The Pacific Region (Greenwood Press). He currently teaches at Drury University in Springfield, Missouri, where he is Chair of the Department of Languages and teaches a course on the history and culture of surfing. His latest project is compiling an anthology of writings about surfing